A Trip Report …
The uKhahlamba Drakensberg (a World Heritage Site) is a magnificent range of mountains, the majority of which lie in KwaZulu Natal and stretch well over 200 kilometres, forming a natural border between Lesotho and KwaZulu Natal. Last week, I spent five days in the area.
Below is a picture report for all the places I visited during this ‘fact-finding mission.’ I never travel anywhere with guests where I have not visited myself beforehand. On the way to ‘The Berg,’ I drove through the Midlands and looked at a few places there as well.
List of places/activities visited:
– The Howick Falls (Waterfall and Museum) [A]
– Nelson Mandela Capture Site (Monument and Museum) [A]
– The Platform (Art Gallery) [A]
– The Piggly Wiggly (Food and Shopping Village) [A]
– Hartford House (Hotel, Restaurant, and Stud Farm) [B]
– Giants Castle Reserve and Bushman Rock Art [C]
– Champagne Castle (Hotel and Restaurant) [D]
– Monks Cowl Nature Reserve [D]
– Drakensberg Boys Choir School (Concert) [D]
– Falcon Ridge (Bird of Prey Centre) [D]
– Dragonview Lodge (Boutique Hotel and Restaurant) [E]
– Valley Bakery (Deli Bakery and Restaurant) [F]
– Spionkop Nature Reserve [G]
– Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse (Hotel and Restaurant) [H]
– Highmoor Nature Reserve [H]
Planned activities missed this time:
– Drakensberg Ballooning (no availability during my time in The Berg) [I]
– Drakensberg Helicopter Tour (cancelled due to bad weather conditions) [D]
– The Sani Pass (This time I had no time for this excursion, but I will do this with guests in September) [K]
– Weenen Game Reserve (cancelled due to bad weather conditions) [L]
– I am planning another trip to The Berg later this year, and I hope I will be able to do the ballooning and the helicopter tour at that time.
[X] = Location (approximate area) on the map below
Special thanks to all my South African friends who gave me tips on where to go. Quite a few of the places and activities will be added to my ‘Custom Luxury Tour’ suggestions (www.sperka.info) for future trips with my guests. I have included web links (where available) for more information.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions about these places not answered in the report below.
So here we go…
Howick Falls
This waterfall (in Howick, just off the R103) is one of the highest in South Africa and quite impressive to observe. It is worth a short visit on the way into The Berg. There was a lot of very good ‘wire/beads art’ on sale from local vendors at the falls. There is a small museum with some good explanations of the colonial history of the area.
Nelson Mandela Capture Site
In my opinion, this is a must, especially if one has not visited the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg. Besides the incredible monument dedicated to Nelson Mandela, the first democratically elected South African President, it features a most interesting museum opened in 2020, giving insight into the long way from the apartheid state to the modern democratic republic and Nelson Mandela’s role in the process. It is located just off the R103.
The Platform
Also on the R103 on the route to the Piggly Wiggly, I stopped at a very interesting contemporary art gallery called The Platform. A good stop if you like art. And there is live music in the coffee shop on Sundays!
The Piggly Wiggly
The Piggly Wiggly is a small and very quaint ‘food and shopping’ village on the R103. A very good place to stop for breakfast or lunch and to do a bit of souvenir shopping for real good quality stuff. The small antique bookstore is a treasure trove for those who like old books!
Hartford House and Stud Farm
Hartford House is an excellent boutique luxury hotel with a superb restaurant. The general manager of Hartford House gave me a very interesting tour of the stud farm, which is one of the activities for their guests. I looked at all the accommodation options and had a very good lunch and a fantastic dinner. Hartford House will definitely be added to my portfolio to suggest to future guests.
Bushman Rock Art at Giants Castle
Only a 45-minute hike from the Giants Castle Resort Reception (it took me about 65 minutes, but I am a very slow walker and I stopped many times for photography), I visited two caves with stone-age rock paintings. The local guide on-site showed me around and explained the site. Well worth a visit.
www.giants-castle.co.za/bushman-rock-art.html
Champagne Castle Hotel
This hotel has the most stunning views of the Monks Cowl Nature Reserve mountains. I stayed here for two nights. It is worth a visit for the views, but the rooms are a bit ‘tired,’ and the restaurant buffet food is below the standard one would expect for the rates one pays. It confirmed again my dislike for soggy buffet-style food. The best rooms to book are the two mountain view suites (they are in quite good shape). The deluxe mountain view rooms are also OK. I would not book the mountain-facing rooms with only partial views of the scenery.
Drakensberg Boys Choir School
I attended two ‘Music in the Mountains Festival’ concerts of the world-famous Drakensberg Boys Choir, which I enjoyed very much. From ‘Zadok the Priest’ to ‘Shosholoza,’ they performed a variety of songs from classical music to traditional African pieces. Two nights to remember. They do a concert every Wednesday during the school term. This year they are also going on tour to England (20 to 30 September), perform from 30 May to 2 June in Gauteng ‘Music in the City,’ and celebrate ‘Christmas in the Berg’ from 6 to 8 December. If I get a chance, I will be back soon!
Falcon Ridge – Bird of Prey Centre
This was not my first visit to Falcon Ridge, and it will not be my last either. I love the show with the rescue birds and its great photo opportunities. A definite addition to my ‘must-see in the Drakensberg list.’
www.facebook.com/falconridgebirdofpreycentre
Dragonview Lodge
I stopped by this small boutique lodge with its bistro-style restaurant. I had an excellent meal and did a site inspection of the eight-room lodge. I definitely found my place to stay for the future in this area of the Berg. For me and my guests, such small lodge operations are much better suited than the large hotels like Champagne Castle and Champagne Sports Resort, which I have also visited for a short inspection. Dragonview Lodge is the perfect place to stay when one is going to a Drakensberg Boys Choir concert.
Valley Bakery
As the breakfast at Champagne Castle Hotel was very disappointing, I chose to drive to the Valley Bakery for breakfast. This quite famous bakery with its small deli restaurant is worth a stop for breakfast or lunch.
www.facebook.com/ValleyBakery1
Spioenkop Nature Reserve
This small nature reserve’s facilities are unfortunately very neglected. I took a short drive during the reserve and had a few very good bird sightings (two life listers!). But there was almost no game. This is not a place to visit with guests.
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse
My last stop was my favourite place in the Drakensberg. There is no question for me that Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse, with its English country house charm, with its stunning views into the Highmoor Reserve, and its superb cuisine, is the perfect place in the mountains. After all the great places I visited during this trip, it felt like coming home. Together with Thanda Safari and Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, it represents the trio of my favourite places in KwaZulu Natal!
End of report
Christian Sperka Photography | Custom Luxury Tours 